14. The Dingle Penninsula

Tuesday, May 29

We left Ehnis in a downpour. It cleared for a bit with the sun peaking out and we got to see the biggest rainbow I have ever seen.

We clicked pictures, but it was hard out the window through the raindrops. You could see where it came to the ground in hazy colors over a farm field. I wanted to find the pot of gold.

We took the ferry across the River Shannon in a steady rain. Bob and I got out to walk around, but it was hard to see in the wind and stinging rain. 

We went through a couple more quaint little towns and stopped in Tralee to walk through gardens, eat a pastry and have a comfort stop. There was a statue there for the Rose of Tralee. Sad Irish love story. I actually saw a Curves in Tralee and Henry pointed out a domed event center named after Dolly Parton as they love her so much.

 

The Dingle Peninsula is long and narrow and Dingle Harbor is very safe as it is sheltered by the hills.

It doesn't get the wind and is a good fishing port. We stopped there and ate their famed fish and chips and seafood chowder. We finished it up with homemade Sea Salt ice cream from Murphy's.

It is nice on this tour that we stop and walk and have comfort stops at least every two hours. Toilets as they are called here are usually quite clean and easy to find. The trouble is, when someone has a place to rent, the sign says "To Let." You tend to walk towards these signs thinking they just forgot the "i."

We left Dingle and climbed up and out onto the Peninsula. We climbed a very winding narrow road with rugged sea coast was on the left and houses and fields on the right. I am always surprised to see the occasional Palm Tree in some of the tiny little garden yards of the houses. We stopped for a magnificent view. We were high up on the hill with rocks and crashing waves below.

Henry told us we were at the farthest western end of Europe. A craftsman was there that Henry said was talented and reputable, who made necklaces from tiny stones from the area with symbols of trees that symbolized each month of the year. Bob bought me a reddish stone that had the symbol for the Holly tree which is the one for my birth month. It is a sweet remembrance that I'll cherish, a little piece of Ireland. I picked up a tiny stone on the beach at the Isle of Skye in Scotland. I'm all set for souvenirs. 

We came down into Killarney which was once just a little village by the Lakes of Killarney. Once the railway came to town in 1850 it began to develop.  They make world famous Lieberman Cranes that are exported all over the world. They have a wonderful National Park right in town that Henry says is one of the finest in the British Isles. There is a Cathedral in town with a lone Redwood standing in front as a memorial to those who died in the Potato Famine.

We arrived at a very nice Holiday Inn and everyone was in a rush to quickly sort laundry, pack it in bags and get it to the laundry. It was pouring rain so we took a taxi with three other ladies. It was a moment in time speeding through narrow, quaint streets listening to the Aussie lady English accents discussing how outrageous it was that one Launderette charged five pounds for a pair of nickers. It was like something out of a movie with scenes I must hold on to.

After dinner in the hotel, bob and I walked the mile into town to an ATM and listened to the music come out of the pubs. At one I heard the sweet Scottish ballad, "Row Lassie Row" and felt a misty homesickness for Scotland and home.

Another good day has come and gone.

13. More Like It

Monday, May 27

We started the morning driving through rich green hilly farm country with small woods of pine and beech and rivers. All of this beautiful farm country with wide open spaces is refreshing on the eyes. It reminded us of northern Michigan around Gaylord here. The houses are more modern like home, but with a tan tudor on the outside, instead of the quaint little white houses you see in pictures of Ireland.

Mixed in are lots of old ivy covered stone ruins. Towns have industrial, could be any town anywhere, outskirts, but connected brightly colored quaint shops in the town centers.

We stopped in Knock to see the beautiful Shrine to Visions. There are wells there where you can collect Holy water. There were lovely plaques, statues and gardens. It was raining when we stopped and then the sun came out and it was all misty and spiritual looking.

Henry got wound up telling us about some poor planning in Ireland and it made me think of home. Modern ugly buildings are plopped right in the middle of historic area with metal and signs every where. He used the example of the Cossacks in England as much smarter planning as they preserved and protected the atmosphere. He gets going on things like that, and we usually very much agree with him, but then he'll say, "Sorry, I'm having a little rant." I love that term and plan to use it.

We stopped in Galway for lunch and a break. We had soup in a Pub, Seafood Chowder and Potato and Leek. Their soups are great and served with a heavy brown bread. And Bob tops it off with a Guiness. This time, Henry sent us to his favorite pub that has their own special beer called Galway Hooker. He said it's the one time you can wrap your lips around a Galway Hooker and not get into trouble. We were joking that the ladies shopped for souvenirs while the men bought Hookers. Sorry, but we sure got lots of laughs out of it.

We drove on by the sea shore but climbing higher into rock strewn mountains. It was quite bumpy. Henry told us road meant "path of the cow" or cow track and this surely felt like it. Also we see Bally on the front of so many names. It means settlement and can be a cluster of buildings or a small town. One more Henry term, in his story telling, he said a lady was "mad as a bag of cats!" I love Henry's terms. Say it with an Irish accent and it's musical.

We drove along the sea with rocky fields and stopped along the cliffs on this unusual bright sunny day.

This area was called the Burrens and was absolutely beautiful. The mystical feeling was back and the ground felt good beneath my feet. Bob and I could have stayed there a while and hiked the lovely trails.

Laughing with Mary.

A little Irish way - When  looking for a wife, men thought teachers were good as they would keep you organized and help you prosper, but were bossy and wouldn't let you get away with anything. Nurses might be better as they'd take care of you as you got long in the tooth and they have warm hands.

Our next stop was the fabulous 600 foot Cliffs of Mohr. It was raining as we started hiking the trails and then once more cleared. Absolutely awesome! We soaked up all we could and, at sometimes a jog, took as many trails as we could with one view as incredible as the next.

We have seen some amazing golf courses on this trip. They are tucked in where you would never expect and look quite challenging. Greg Norman designed one right near where we were traveling.

A word about fairies - they are not the cute little Tinker Bell variety. They are full of mischief and can cause a lot of trouble and aren't always cute. There are raised places on the fields with grass covered stones that are called Fairy Forts. People go way out and around them not to disturb them. Even modern road builders, etc. will not tamper with them. Those who do run into a lot of bad luck or have accidents, so it's best to be safe.

We headed into West Clare County with small farms, bog land, and small woods. This is clean north country and so much more like I'd pictured Ireland.

We stopped for the night in the sweet little town of Ehnis.  We freshened up and headed out for our evening at  Bunratty Castle, a restored castle used to give tourists a taste of medieval times. It was in a lovely garden setting with workers dressed the part. Climbing steep steps to a gathering room where we were served Meade ( a honey wine) and entertained with harp and fiddle. The furnishings were incredible with tapestries from 1400's. We then went up to the dinning room and were given only knives to eat with ribs and vegetables while a chosen lord and lady presided and made us laugh. The waiters and waitresses then entertained us singing beautiful Irish ballads. Danny Boy made all of the ladies shed a few tears. It was a great fun evening.

Even the drive through the countryside was grand. We were content.

  

12. Northern Ireland

Sunday, May 26

This morning as we left Belfast, Henry explained to us-

The Scots know what they want and will take anything else they can get their hands on.

The Irish (as Oscar Wilde said) don't know what they want, but they'll fight you for it anyway.

We drove again through beautiful rolling patchwork farm lands with trees and hedges as their frames. In Scotland everything is orderly, in Ireland, they don't like being told what to do and everything is a bit more ragged. Hedgerows aren't as neat, but they are lush and many shades of green and very pretty. This independent attitude came with the immigrants to the United States when it was still just colonies and played a big part in the Boston Tea Party.

We saw lots of raised bog land which is where residents cut turf to use to heat their homes and cook. They dug and cut squares which were quite wet and the consistency of butter. They would then dry it till ready to burn. It worked more like wood than coal and gave off a nice glow. It has a distinct smell which makes the Irish think of home. Cutting turf is now very restricted.

We stopped in the mist on the cliffs to take pictures. Henry told us the story of Robert the Bruce becoming discouraged in his fight for the freedom of Scotland and he hid in a cave on an island off Ireland's coast. While there he watched a spider trying to spin a web in the wind and he had to start over time and again. The spider was finally successful which gave Robert the Bruce the motivation to carry on and he returned to Scotland renewed.

We traveled on to the Giants Causeway. The story has it that two giants, one in Scotland and one in Ireland, had never met each other, but loved yelling insults back and forth. The one in Scotland decided to go after the one in Ireland and built a causeway of rocks over the sea to him. The Ireland giant's wife told her husband to dress like a baby and get into the cradle. When the Scottish giant knocked at the door, the wife said she was sorry her husband was out for the moment, but he could come in and see the baby. He saw the baby, and fearing what his father must look like, ran back to Scotland destroying the causeway as he ran. What was left is now what we see as the Giant's Causeway.

  

It was a beautiful stop and a brisk hike. We could have stayed there long climbing rocks and hiking trails. We made the most of every minute and were one of the last to jump on the bus. I am going to sleep for a week when I get home. Can't waste time on that now!

As we drove down out of the mountains, a sweet version of Danny Boy played. Very lovely.

We stopped in the Victorian town of Derry. We walked the city wall and went off by ourselves. We stopped in an old pub for soup and met up with several others. Great fun.

We drove on in Donnegal County through rich, fertile farm land up to more mountains. This seemed more like the Scottish Highlands. Soon we were singing It's a Long Way to Tipperary and Cockles and Mussels. It cracks me up what a little music will do.

Here's a phase that is an example of the Irish people's dislike of rules - You don't park a car in Ireland. You abandon it. People just stop and get out.

More woods, pines, streams and deer crossing signs. Nice.

We stopped at Beleek China and saw a film on the incredible craftsmanship and skill in the making of china. It was very interesting. Besides regular pieces, they make delicate woven china baskets of different sizes with tiny painted flowers. I got the least expensive, beautiful little mug with the Gathering 2013 slogan of a "Hundred Thousand Welcomes" written in Gaelic (Cade Mile Failte) with little painted shamrocks. It is a mug to cherish. Now to get it home.

We stopped in the Valley Shannon, Ballyshannon, to see the church, St. Columbos, and graveyard where William Butler Yeats, who wrote beautiful love poems, is buried. The church dates back to the 6th Century. Hard to concieve. It is still a working church and it was fun to look at birthday names and see the programs. It would be fun to attend a service in this pretty little church.

Exhausted once again, we stopped at a quaint hotel, with a fire going in the lobby.

We unpacked, met for a Guiness, had dinner, a short walk and snuggled in. We wonder how we can be so tired after sitting on a bus, but it is just so much to take in and we go at it with zest and determination not to miss a thing!

11. Here We Go to Ireland

Saturday, May 25

We started this glorious sunny day with a city tour around Glasgow. I wore my first short sleeve shirt and we needed sunglasses. Henry told us Glasgow is the European capital of architecture and it has more gardens than Edinburgh.

I should mention here that every city or town of any size has a McDonalds, Starbucks, Pizza Hut, and Subway. Amazing.

We drove up and down past incredible buildings and a beautiful university. Glasgow sits on coal mines and there is a tall leaning clock tower in the center that leans because a mine shaft under it collapsed. Henry told us to look up as we toured because of the ornate decoration. You can't help clicking pictures and then can't remember what they are that evening. We see so much so fast. It would be good to go back and take our time in places of interest, but we opted to see it all and we are.

The Presbyterian Church in Glasgow.

There is so much to write about Glasgow that surprised us like how many famous, industrious people came from here and how it has the School of Ballet and the School of Bag-piping. Also, King James was here when he had the English version of the Bible authorized. Once back on the highway, it could have been any city with industry and commercial buildings.

We drove through lots of hilly green farmland with pines and hardwoods as we headed south. There was a big wind farm with rows of huge windmills that supposedly supplies Glasgow with most of its power. We could tell Henry wasn't convinced.

Playing in the background was a CD of Robert the Bruce's speech before battle and then drumming and bagpipes. It was very motivating. This part of the country reminds us of Minnesota farmland with the hilly fields and wooded glens. The highlands are my favorite, but I could just hug it all.

We stopped at the Robert Burns memorial and had coffee and shortbread and walked the beautiful gardens and climbed the tower. Robert Burns has more monuments to him than anyone. There is even one in Detroit.

We drove on through fields of sheep and cows with little white houses and the seaside on our right. We continue to be amazed at the amount of wide open country in these British Isles. It is delightful. 

We passed the ruins of the Kennedy Castle way out on a point on the sea. This is breath taking country. We saw several pheasants in the fields. Then we passed through the quaint little seaport town of Girvan with signs posted on a stone arch as we left that said - Whit's yer hurry?  Haste ye back.

We saw a huge horse show right by the road with horses prancing across the field. It would have been fun to watch. We seem to be seeing more horses as we go.

On we went with Rod Stewart playing in the background. He sang some Scottish songs I hadn't heard before. The sea was now close with rocky steep hills on our left and the shore on our right.

Our trip to Alaska was our dream of a lifetime trip that could not be matched, but we'll be darned if this trip isn't right on it's butt and could end neck and neck. It is a different kind of trip, but massively impressive and fabulously fun. There just aren't words. What an adventure and all of these fine new friends to share it with, accompanied by perfect music.

We boarded the ferry at Loch Ryan and sadly said goodbye to Scotland. I really want to come back and explore some day. I get misty just thinking about it. The ride was nice. We had lunch, walked and had a nap in the lounge. We landed in Belfast in Norn Irn (Northern Ireland).
 

                                                       

Belfast has some wonderful old buildings, industry and a lot of history, but is not attractive with graffiti and occasional litter. We took a city tour with Rosemary who had a great sense of humor and we loved her phrases. This is where the Titanic was built and they have a beautiful memorial. Their saying was that the ship was fine when it left them.

It is a Victorian city but much was destroyed during World War II bombing. Also, there was so much about the fights between the Protestants and the Catholics and those loyal to the crown and those wanting independence. There are murals and signs and fences dividing the two groups.

They are trying to change that image and insist it is very safe, but it all seemed a bit seedy. As we passed a pub area on the way to our hotel, some boisterous young men came out. I met eyes with one from the bus window. He smiled, then it turned into a sneer and to the cheering of his friends, he turned his back, yanked his pants down and his little white butt mooned us.

The hotel across from us where President Clinton once stayed was famous for being the most bombed hotel of all time totaling 42 bombings.

We weren't thrilled with Belfast, yet it was an experience.

After we checked in at the hotel, we walked down to a street fair or market. There were lots of crafts, food, and beer tents.


We met up with some of the others and ate a delicious feta cheese and olive pastry as we walked. We came back by the hotel and stopped at the Crown Pub, a famous old pub still lit with gas light, with little booths with doors so ladies could be discrete.


We went back to the room organized and  went to sleep to the sounds of traffic and Saturday night partying. Some heard a man and woman arguing in the night and found hiking boots thrown down the hall in a fit of rage. Ahh Ireland.