Thursday, May 30, 2013

13. More Like It

Monday, May 27

We started the morning driving through rich green hilly farm country with small woods of pine and beech and rivers. All of this beautiful farm country with wide open spaces is refreshing on the eyes. It reminded us of northern Michigan around Gaylord here. The houses are more modern like home, but with a tan tudor on the outside, instead of the quaint little white houses you see in pictures of Ireland.

Mixed in are lots of old ivy covered stone ruins. Towns have industrial, could be any town anywhere, outskirts, but connected brightly colored quaint shops in the town centers.

We stopped in Knock to see the beautiful Shrine to Visions. There are wells there where you can collect Holy water. There were lovely plaques, statues and gardens. It was raining when we stopped and then the sun came out and it was all misty and spiritual looking.

Henry got wound up telling us about some poor planning in Ireland and it made me think of home. Modern ugly buildings are plopped right in the middle of historic area with metal and signs every where. He used the example of the Cossacks in England as much smarter planning as they preserved and protected the atmosphere. He gets going on things like that, and we usually very much agree with him, but then he'll say, "Sorry, I'm having a little rant." I love that term and plan to use it.

We stopped in Galway for lunch and a break. We had soup in a Pub, Seafood Chowder and Potato and Leek. Their soups are great and served with a heavy brown bread. And Bob tops it off with a Guiness. This time, Henry sent us to his favorite pub that has their own special beer called Galway Hooker. He said it's the one time you can wrap your lips around a Galway Hooker and not get into trouble. We were joking that the ladies shopped for souvenirs while the men bought Hookers. Sorry, but we sure got lots of laughs out of it.


We drove on by the sea shore but climbing higher into rock strewn mountains. It was quite bumpy. Henry told us road meant "path of the cow" or cow track and this surely felt like it. Also we see Bally on the front of so many names. It means settlement and can be a cluster of buildings or a small town. One more Henry term, in his story telling, he said a lady was "mad as a bag of cats!" I love Henry's terms. Say it with an Irish accent and it's musical.

We drove along the sea with rocky fields and stopped along the cliffs on this unusual bright sunny day.

This area was called the Burrens and was absolutely beautiful. The mystical feeling was back and the ground felt good beneath my feet. Bob and I could have stayed there a while and hiked the lovely trails.
Laughing with Mary.


A little Irish way - When  looking for a wife, men thought teachers were good as they would keep you organized and help you prosper, but were bossy and wouldn't let you get away with anything. Nurses might be better as they'd take care of you as you got long in the tooth and they have warm hands.

Our next stop was the fabulous 600 foot Cliffs of Mohr. It was raining as we started hiking the trails and then once more cleared. Absolutely awesome! We soaked up all we could and, at sometimes a jog, took as many trails as we could with one view as incredible as the next.


We have seen some amazing golf courses on this trip. They are tucked in where you would never expect and look quite challenging. Greg Norman designed one right near where we were traveling.

A word about fairies - they are not the cute little Tinker Bell variety. They are full of mischief and can cause a lot of trouble and aren't always cute. There are raised places on the fields with grass covered stones that are called Fairy Forts. People go way out and around them not to disturb them. Even modern road builders, etc. will not tamper with them. Those who do run into a lot of bad luck or have accidents, so it's best to be safe.

We headed into West Clare County with small farms, bog land, and small woods. This is clean north country and so much more like I'd pictured Ireland.

We stopped for the night in the sweet little town of Ehnis.  We freshened up and headed out for our evening at  Bunratty Castle, a restored castle used to give tourists a taste of medieval times. It was in a lovely garden setting with workers dressed the part. Climbing steep steps to a gathering room where we were served Meade ( a honey wine) and entertained with harp and fiddle. The furnishings were incredible with tapestries from 1400's. We then went up to the dinning room and were given only knives to eat with ribs and vegetables while a chosen lord and lady presided and made us laugh. The waiters and waitresses then entertained us singing beautiful Irish ballads. Danny Boy made all of the ladies shed a few tears. It was a great fun evening.


Even the drive through the countryside was grand. We were content.